Category Archives: sewing

The Wardrobe Architect: Style in My Life

The first week’s Wardrobe Architect assignment involves figuring how different elements of your life affect your personal style choices. I love pondering my own navel, so this was probably more fun than it should have been for me.

A girl with bright red hair and a red t-shirt posing in front of a silver and black curtain in a college dorm room
Me as a wild and reckless youth

I was a youngun’ in the 1990s, the age of “alternative” fashion, Manic Panic hair dye, and oversized flannel shirts. The evolution of my personal style really began when I was in college. I started to gravitate toward a kind-of-vintage kind-of-punk thing, but at that point, I really didn’t know what my style was all about, so it was mostly kind-of-nondescript.

Two girls in a bar, wearing black, laughing
Me as a carefree n’er do well

But the beginnings of a fashion sense were there.

A girl in a flowery dress, with a young boy looking over her shoulder
Me and my little bro, back in 2000

I was raised to value neatness, and looking presentable. I rebelled against that pretty strongly as a teenager, but I know that those values are part of how I dress now. I don’t believe sweatpants should be worn in public, nor do I believe that leggings are pants. I think it’s important to look nice when you go out into the world. Thanks, Mom!

That being said, I live in California, and life out here is pretty casual. My colleagues wear jeans and t-shirts. My social life doesn’t involve clubbing or movie premieres or wild parties, so flashy fancy clothes have no real place in my life. And while I believe in looking presentable, I also believe in being comfortable.

Girl wearing a loose top, cardigan, and jeans
Me now, in a pretty typical work outfit

That picture above really looks like I’m crying, but I swear I wasn’t. It was just an early morning.

The (unfortunately) big thing that has always influenced my fashion choices is body image. Wah wah, what a girl I am. But pretty much since I was 14 I have shied away from anything revealing. No shorts or short skirts, no sleeveless shirts, nothing too revealing. I’m a prude, apparently. I used to dream about those bathing suits from the 1900s. I’m learning to appreciate my figure, but I still am not a huge fan of revealing clothing. You won’t see me in a midriff-baring anything any time soon.

So what sticks out in this analysis, for me? I like comfortable clothing that has an element of classic, vintage style and an element of quirky, punk-ness.

Two young girls in the 1980s, playing dress up.

And apparently, I was a real fashion plate at 10. Yup, that’s me, on the left, with the fabulous bangs.

Next, we dive into defining a core style, one that remains constant through the ever-changing dictates of fashion’s fickle ways.

If you want to ponder your own life and your relationship to fashion, download Sarai’s awesome PDF worksheet. Who doesn’t love a worksheet? You can find more details about this week’s assignment on her blog.

What are the core things that stand out for you about your life, and how it might impact your clothing choices?

The Wardrobe Architect, Laura-style

Last January, one of my favorite pattern makers and sewing bloggers, Sarai of Colette Patterns, introduce an awesome series/project called The Wardrobe Architect. The idea behind the project is to begin to thoughtfully plan a wardrobe, rather than to make and buy clothing willy nilly and eventually find that you have a closet full of things you don’t really like.

Now, I am a total sucker for anything that involves planning, especially if there are regular assignments to tackle. I love assignments, and yes, I was a complete school nerd. I love projects! And I have been feeling like I want to start building some coherence into my wardrobe, some sense that the clothing that I’m putting on my body, and especially the clothing I’m spending so much time making, suits me, works well together, and makes me feel confident. This project could not have come along at a better time.

I’ve actually been completing the assignments all along, but it didn’t even occur to me to share my work here until now. I haven’t been a very good blogger lately. So let’s make up for lost time!

Over the next few weeks, I’ll share the work that I have done on my Wardrobe Architect project, and hopefully inspire you to dig in and start planning your spring and summer wardrobe, too. It’s been a really enjoyable project so far. If you’re interested, and don’t want to wait for me and my behind-the-times ass, check out all of Sarai’s fantastic Wardrobe Architect posts. And check back soon if you want to hear about my own explorations, and perhaps get some inspiration (I hope).

These Days

In my mind summer is a time for relaxing in the sunshine, preferably in a hammock, eyes half-closed against the bright summer sky, and perhaps a beer somewhere close at hand. In my mind time slows down in the summer. But in truth, summer (at least this summer) is buzzing, flitting from here to there, all energy and full schedules. I’m trying to embrace this summer reality, but right now, all I want is that hammock.

My time at CDL is coming to a close, which means I’m trying to wrap things up, train our programmers to be analysts, and make sure everything I leave behind is organized and decipherable by someone new. It also means there are going away lunches and parties planned, and that, sadly, short-timer syndrome just might be making my brain function on a fuzzier plane. Maybe.

Wedding preparations are in full gear. Invitations went out yesterday! So exciting!

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We got our first wedding/shower present in the mail yesterday, too, and I was surprised by how excited it made me. All along, I’ve felt sooo weird about registering for gifts, about this bizarre cultural expectation that weddings require gifts, about allowing people to plan me showers because it just felt like I was greedily asking for more gifts. I don’t know, it made me feel awkward. Nevertheless, it was exciting to open a wedding gift with Sean yesterday. It made me feel like this is all HAPPENING.

Also making me feel like this is happening: Sean and I decided to open a joint bank account sooner than we were planning. It just made sense, since I’ll be starting a new job and therefore having to fill out new direct deposit paperwork. I thought, why not just do this once? We sent off the account paperwork yesterday. Weird. Exciting! Marriage!

Speaking of marriage (still): Sean’s sister Stephanie and her partner Eddie got married last weekend. We went to Beaver Creek in Colorado for the wedding, and spent four wonderful days in the mountains, sitting by the pool, doing outdoor yoga (me), hiking (Sean), and eating delicious food. It was pretty special and Steph and Eddie’s wedding was beautiful!

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I had high hopes that I would finish sewing a dress for Steph’s wedding, but my sewing machine has been acting up, and this dress is proving way more time consuming than I expected. So it didn’t get finished (boo). This is the state it was in when we left last Thursday:

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Not quite ready to wear. I’m hoping to finish it in time for another wedding we’re going to NEXT weekend, but honestly? Looking doubtful. Sad face. Couture sewing is not for the faint of heart, and right now, I’m feeling a little faint of heart.

We’re going camping this weekend (I told you things are busy!), and I’m hoping that I manage to find some quiet, relaxing, hammock-like time out there in the woods. Because this pace doesn’t look like it’s going to be slowing anytime soon.

Atomic Age Throw Pillows

I’ve been in a bit of a nesting phase lately. I think our apartment is about halfway to being pretty darn awesome, and I’ve been overcome with the urge to push it the rest of the way. I’m trying to take advantage of my enthusiasm and motivation to actually tackle some householding projects, and one of the first is something I’ve had in mind for awhile now: new throw pillows for our couch.

My parents bought this couch for me when I moved to Walla Walla, because my mom couldn’t stand the idea of me not having a place to sit and relax in my little house. And because my parents are unfailingly generous. It’s a lovely little couch upholstered in soft brown microsuede, and it’s very, very comfortable. But it came with two fairly boring, polyester throw pillows.

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The pillows just felt lost and sad; their muted colors ensured that they practically disappeared into the couch. And they weren’t very pleasing to the touch, either. I wanted something with a little more style and flair, and finally I decided to bite the bullet and order some new fabric. I bought some matching piping at Britex one afternoon, and as soon as my fabric arrived I got to work. These pillows were actually very easy to make (so why it took me over a week to finally get both pillows done is a mystery), and while I didn’t quite get the piping on the corners right, I’m calling that a design feature.

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Isn’t this fabric fun? I love the way this robin’s egg blue pops against the brown, and the colors modernize the otherwise very retro print. These throw pillows make me happy, and I actually have enough fabric left to make a third.

Couch Cushion

Close Up Couch Cushion Fabric

I really like the texture of this fabric, too. It’s a printed cotton, but there is a bit of roughness to it which I think is a good contrast to the smoothness of the couch fabric.

This was such an easy and gratifying first project in my grand apartment-polishing scheme. Both Sean and I want a new rug, and some new art to hang on the walls. And I’m right in the middle of an epic 30 Day De-cluttering Project (which I will definitely be sharing soon). It feels good to purge some of the stuff I’ve accumulated, and to make our apartment feel a little more pulled together. It’s a small space, and I’m trying to make better use of it than we have been over the last two years.

Of course, it will be all-too-predictable, in my peripatetic life, that as soon as I get our apartment all fixed up and perfect, we’ll have to move… (Did I just jinx myself? Doh.)

May Moves Ever Onward

A new Sorbetto!

This month is passing so quickly I can hardly keep my head on straight. I continue to put homemade garments on my body every day, but the outfits are starting to repeat, and in the interest of not boring the pants off anyone, I’m not sharing them all here. But I did make a new top last week, and I love it!

I made an impromptu stop at Britex when I was in the city last week, and picked up two pieces from their remnants floor, with the specific intention of making two new Sorbetto tops. Here is the first:

Striped Sorbetto

I love this fabric: it’s a simple shirting cotton, with a nice textured stripe in light blue and grey. It was very easy to sew with (a quality I’m appreciating more and more). And I’m really pleased with how it turned out.

I even made my own bias tape to finish the neckline and the arms.

Bias tape

I do want to create a little tutorial on making this bias tape. There are some good tutorials online, but I found that I had to use two or three of them cobbled together to get a really good sense of how to do this. So I thought I’d try my hand at clarifying some of the pieces that I thought were particularly confusing. Keep your eyes open for that…and be forgiving. It will be my first tutorial attempt.

In other news, we had a lovely weekend here, with hiking:
Briones

And beverages in the sun at a nearby urban beer garden:
This ginger ale had a serious kick.

I cannot believe next weekend is Memorial Day weekend. What the what? Sigh.

What’s Happening Here

At work

I’m still attempting to wear something I’ve made every day. So far, there has been only one day when I didn’t, and that’s because I had to wear a suit for a fancy meeting and all of my suitable self-mades were in the wash. The picture above is me, at work, and that skirt is the Kiss Me Deadly skirt I made awhile back. I didn’t realize until just now how flat chested this outfit makes me look. Hm.

Life is chugging along around here. I took a trip down to San Diego last weekend to surprise my Ma for Mother’s Day. She was suitably surprised. It was a great trip, except for the plague that was visited on the house. We all came down with a wicked stomach bug. We fell like dominos: The four year old went first on Friday night, then her Papa, then me, my mom, and my sister in law, then my dad. The only one who was spared was the baby.

Julia in polka dots

She is obviously too cute to get sick.

When I was home I randomly found part of my fourth grade Halloween costume, when I dressed as a 1950s carhop. My mom made me this awesome poodle skirt.

4th Grade Halloween Costume

I had a tray to which she glued a hamburger bun, some “french fries,” and a soda cup, and I got to roller skate around school all day. I totally want to be a carhop for Halloween again. Too bad this skirt won’t fit me anymore…

I’m fully recovered from the Krier Family Bug of 2013 now, and there are lots of fun things coming up for Sean and I, not to mention tons of crafting projects, sewing projects, and some new recipes to try. I’ll be working double time to have more me-made garments to finish out Me-Made May. Now that summer is making itself known around here, I’m definitely looking at lighter fabrics and easy to wear patterns. I have tons of beautiful wool, but I think that stuff is going to stay in the fabric bin for another few months. I’m also planning to make a dress for my soon-to-be sister-in-law’s wedding this summer, and I’ll be using this Craftsy class on The Couture Dress to guide me. I’m planning to share lots of details about the process along the way.

And just as a last piece of loveliness for the day, yesterday when I was in San Francisco, I stopped at Britex for some inspiration and shopping (expect new shirts soon!), and next door I saw this excellent window display.

Sewing machines

Me Made May, Day 10: The Sencha Blouse

Looks fine right? Nope.

The shortage of me-made tops around these parts became glaringly obvious to me when I started trying to wear them. I decided to remedy this situation, and fast, by finally making the Colette Pattern’s Sencha blouse I’ve been thinking about for awhile now. I bought this awesome cotton voile a few months ago, and had in mind exactly this blouse for it when I bought it. So this week, I decided to try to whip it together in order to have it in time to wear it Friday.

This means I was sewing for a LONG time last night. But it looks great, right?

Nope.

Too big!

This thing is HUGE. I pinned in the excess fabric in back so I could still get away with wearing it today (a cardigan hides a multitude of sins). But wowza. I need to take in at least 4 or 5 inches from this thing.

Dudes. I made a muslin and everything.

Sencha muslin

Does this look too big to you? I mean, I know Bessie and I aren’t EXACTLY the same size, but I didn’t think we were that far off from each other.

Sencha muslin

This is not what this top looks like on me.

Sigh. I never thought blouses would be so tricky to make. In ready to wear, tops are about the easiest things in the world for me to buy, because my up-top shaping is pretty standard. And yet…I have made four tops (five, if you count the one I threw away because it was so horrible), and most of them have some kind of strange fitting issue. I think I know what my mistake was here: I ended up grading out the pattern at the hips, because I knew that with its long-ish hem, it would need a little more space to fit my derriere. But I think I didn’t need as much space as I assumed I would. Maybe? There is also an insane amount of extra fabric around the waist, so I don’t know.

I think the part that baffles me the most is that it fits my dress form very differently than it fits me, and I honestly didn’t think my dress form was that hugely different to my actual body. I think I need to spend some serious time padding out and forcing in and generally re-shaping Ol’ Bessie.

Anyway. I’m still wearing it. Cardigans are my friend. I’ll fix it soon.

Me-Made May, Day 9

The Desk Set skirt

This is the skirt I meant to share with you all over a month ago. I like to call it The Desk Set skirt. It’s a lined wool pencil skirt made from the pencil skirt pattern in Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing. I bought the wool in Seattle, where I fell in love with its soft hand and shape-shifting color at a cute little fabric store called Stitches. I spent a lot more on this fabric than I normally do (100% Italian wool!), so I took extra care to make this skirt well.

This is the first lined skirt I’ve ever made, and some parts of the lining process were a little baffling to me. Like, what do you do with the lining around the zipper opening? Hm. I’m pretty sure I didn’t do mine right, but at least it’s on the inside.

I sewing a blind hem on this bad boy by hand. Took forever, but was totally worth it.

Blind hem

The only visible goof on this skirt is on the back of the waistband. My first buttonhole was too far toward the end of the waistband, causing the skirt to gap. I made another buttonhole, and it fits better, but I haven’t quite figured out how to get rid of the original hole. However, the button I found for this skirt is SO BEAUTIFUL that I hope it distracts from the extra buttonhole (ok, not quite, but a girl can pretend).

Button

My favorite thing about this skirt is that the color of the wool is kind of indeterminate. In these pictures it looks closer to black (and the button looks blue), but in some lights, the skirt is more of an olive, and in some, it’s more grey. The button also is somewhere between green, blue, and grey. Such a lovely color.

Here’s the skirt on Bessie (geez, she’s kinda frumpy looking).

Bessie in the Desk Set skirt

And here’s another picture of the skirt on me, yesterday. Yes, this fabric wrinkles terribly; I did iron it before I put it on.

The Desk Set Skirt

This has quickly become my favorite thing in my wardrobe. It makes me feel pulled together and professional and classy. It might be retired for the summer (wool in July just feels wrong), but I think it’ll be around for many years to come.

Me Made May, Day 8

Me Made Portrait Blouse

Rolling right along, and still wearing me-made clothes. Love it! This outfit even includes a me-made necklace, oen of my favorite pieces I’ve made so far. But the top is the garment of the day.

This is based on the Portrait Blouse from Gertie’s awesome New Book for Better Sewing. This top almost didn’t make it. It was stitched together last winter, but it just wasn’t right, and I’ve been futzing with it ever since. I ended up taking the tucks out of the back because it was way too tight, and I didn’t include the side zip, because the fabric doesn’t really need it. The hem of this top is really high, and until recently, I didn’t have any pants with a high enough waist to work with it. I tried a few different methods of extending the length, but nothing that quite worked.

However, my new jeans have a nice, high waist, and they are perfect with this style of top. I ended up just finishing the hem with narrow single-fold bias tape, but it’s still not perfect. There are a few little places where the fabric slipped out of the tape and missed being sewn in. That drives me CRAZY. I will probably end up taking the bias tape off and re-doing this with a wider tape, but for today, it’s just fine.

I am reaching the bottom of my me-made closet, so there will be a fair number of repeats in the coming weeks. Hopefully I can think of different ways to wear my separates so that I’m not just wearing the same outfit over and over again. Which I have a tendency to do, because it’s easy. I’m also feeling pretty inspired to create some new stuff FAST so that I have more to wear this month.

My loose-weave sweater is kinda dead in the water right now (wah wah), but I’m going to start working tonight on a Colette Sencha bouse, which will hopefully be finished in time for the weekend. We shall see.

Are you me-made-ing it this month?

Me Made May, Day 7

William Morris skirt

This skirt is my most recent creation, and I love it. I did the bulk of the work on Sunday afternoon, and finished up some fitting and the hem last night, which makes this perhaps the fastest thing I’ve ever sewn. It is also the most well-made thing I’ve sewn to date: the seams are all nicely finished, I pressed everything, I didn’t take any shortcuts.

The pattern is from the Sew Everything Workshop book; it’s the Naughty Secretary pattern, with a waist band that I drafted from instructions in Threads magazines. The only bummer is that, despite the fact that I have made this before and didn’t remember these fitting issues, it is kinda big on me. I even changed the back darts to take a full two inches in at the waist and it is still too big. I think I can fix that, though, without having to take the whole darn skirt apart.

The fabric is a William Morris-inspired print I bought at Michael Levine in LA. I love William Morris designs, so I was pleased as punch to stumble across this very Morris-esque print. I think it might be quilting cotton, but I don’t know. It was a lovely fabric to sew with, though: It stayed right where I put it. That’s probably why I was able to do such a good job with it.

Once I get the waist fitting just right, I think this will become a staple of my summer wardrobe. It is just my style: interesting but subdued, totally classic, but a little unexpected. And it matches perfectly with my favorite grey suede heels.

PS – I have no idea why I’m standing with such a weird posture in that picture. I’m still not super comfortable with pictures of myself, but I’m getting better at it. I think.