Category Archives: sewing

Me-Made Weekend

I did manage to continue my Me-Made experiment through the weekend, although I’m coming to the end of the home-sewn garment collection. I got A LOT of sewing done this weekend, though, and I suspect that trying to wear my own garments every day this month is going to light a fire under my ass.

Me Made Weekend, Saturday

This skirt is the very first thing I ever sewed, back in, I think, 2006. It’s a very stretchy purple knit skirt with a fold-over waistband. I thought it would be so easy, but little did I know, knits are not easy. To be honest, it wasn’t that difficult, but I did manage to sew the wrong side of the fabric on the outside of the skirt. Ooops. Thankfully, it’s hardly noticeable. In fact, I didn’t notice it until after I’d worn the skirt a few times.

I love this skirt because it’s super comfortable, although it often feels a little too schlumpy to wear to work or anywhere nice.

Me Made Tunic out of a sheet

On Sunday, I wore this little tunic that I made last fall out of an old sheet. This is definitely not a garment that goes out much. It’s strictly for days when I’m home doing chores and puttering around. I drafted the “pattern” from instructions in this random crafting book I have, and did all kinds of weird hacks to get it to fit alright and not look terrible. It’s probably the most ridiculous handmade garment I have, but the fabric is super soft and a great color, so it’s hard to let it go. Whatever. It is great for chore days, because I don’t really mind of it gets messy. It’s almost like an apron, itself. Maybe I should sew some big patch pockets on the front.

Yesterday I worked for awhile on the loose-weave sweater I mentioned a few days ago, and so far…I’m not really sure. It’s kind of huge. And I still don’t know how I’m going to sew those sleeves in. I set the sweater aside and started working on another pencil skirt, and so far, I’m in LOVE with it. I’m hoping to finish it tonight.

And today? The fun continues with my Kiss Me Deadly Pencil Skirt.

Me made pencil skirt

This skirt has become one of my wardrobe staples. It’s comfortable, easy to match with anything, easy to wash, and flattering. The waist is a smidge too big, but it still works. Fitting is by far the hardest part about sewing.

Stay tuned tomorrow (I hope) to see something new!

Me Made May, Day 3

Me made May 3

So far so good! Today I’m wearing my polka dot version of Colette’s Sorbetto. The Sorbetto is a free pattern download, so if you haven’t yet gotten your hands on it, I’d check it out immediately. It’s a pretty easy little top to sew, and very comfortable and versatile.

Like nearly all of my sewing projects, there are things I learned in the making of this top. The fabric I used is a very slippery, lightweight rayon, and yes, it was a bitch to work with. I love wearing slinky little fabrics, but I am not a fan of sewing with them. The neckline and sleeves of this shirt are finished with a bias binding, and I had originally intended to make bias tape out of the remaining fabric from the shirt. But it was way too hard to work with, and I ended up just using some basic grey bias tape I had on hand.

I also finished my seams the lazy lady way, with just pinking shears, but with this fabric that was not enough. After the first wash, the seams started fraying and I thought this shirt was doomed. But I had a late night brainstorm: I had some leftover interfacing that is similar in weight and drape to the fabric of this shirt, so I just cut some long strips of interfacing and fused them over the seams on the inside. Voila: no more fraying. Not a very professional finish, but it works for me. It did make me realize, once and for all, the importance of finishing seams.

It’s Friday, whoo hoo, and I’m hoping to spend the evening working on that sweater I mentioned a few days ago. Maybe I’ll be able to share it soon! My sewing projects have been taking me longer than anticipated lately, but I think that’s partly because I want to do things more neatly and professionally. I’m realizing that my laziness doesn’t always work with sewing, so I’m trying to conscientiously take more time, and do things the right way.

Are you participating in Me-Made May? I’m loving seeing everyone else’s creations on the blogs, especially when people are pulling out things they made when they first started sewing. It makes me realize that everyone starts where I am now: making mistakes and learning something new with every project.

Me Made May, Day 2

Me made May

Forgive the not-so-awesome cell phone picture. I managed to put another me-made garment on my body today: This drape neck tank top was the first thing I made when I dragged my sewing machine out of hibernation last year. I bought the knit fabric online years ago, when I first started getting into sewing. I think I originally intended it to be a knit skirt with a fold-over waistband, but the fabric didn’t have as much stretch as I thought.

I had been wanting a tank top with a draped neckline for a long time, and I scoured the internet for just the right pattern before finally landing on this one, McCall’s M6078. To be honest, it’s not the perfect pattern. The neckline is a little deeper than I wanted, but it works. And I like the way the body fits.

When I made this, I remember that the fabric was a real pain to work with. I actually took the fabric to work to cut, because I didn’t have a surface big enough (other than the floor) to cut it out at home.

Cutting Up at Work

The cutting layout had you fold the selvedge edges in toward the middle, and I recall that was a real struggle. I am impatient with fabrics that don’t fold easily. But I finally got it to work, and while I am not in love with this shirt, it has been growing on me over the last seven months since I made it.

And let me just talk about my jeans for a minute. I’m wearing a pair of NYDJ (Not Your Daughter’s Jeans) jeans. This is my second pair, and I LOVE these jeans. For most of my life I’ve avoided wearing jeans because they never fit right. I have wide hips, and a small waist, so it is inevitable with nearly every pair of pants that the waist is too big and I spend a dumb amount of time pulling my pants up. Jeans never work with belts for me because the thickness of the fabric means tons of bulkiness at the waist once they are cinched with a belt.

Both pairs of NYDJ jeans I own fit like a dream. They are the most comfortable pairs of jeans I’ve ever worn. The waist doesn’t start falling down midway through the day. They are comfortable to sit and move in, and I think they are pretty flattering, too. I never thought I would be a jeans-wearing girl, but I want to wear these every day. If you have a hard time finding jeans that fit, definitely check out this brand. The company name makes me feel old, but the jeans make me feel happy.

My Pollyanna Summer Dress

Pollyanna Summer Dress

It might still be spring by the calendar, but in Oakland, it feels like glorious summer. It’s been a stunning week here, and my latest sewing project was completed just in time. This dress took a bit longer than I anticipated. I hit a few snags, and it turned out a little, um, asymmetrical. But it works, and I learned a heck of a lot in the making.

I used Simplicity 2886 for this dress, and some navy cotton embroidered fabric I picked up in LA’s Garment District, at some random little hole in the wall shop. The cotton is super light, which makes for a very floaty, very comfortable summery sundress. Also, it has pockets! Well, it has pocket, thanks to a fitting error and a rank amateur’s sewing mistake.

I actually made a muslin for the bodice of this dress, and when I was fitting it, I realized it was going to be too tight. Evidence of my lack of attention to detail and lack of facility with numbers shows in the fact the finished dress was HUGE. I suspect that I meant to add a mere quarter inch to each side seam on the front only, but instead I added a half inch to each side seam on both the front and back bodice pieces. So what should have been only half an inch larger became two inches. Yeah. I don’t know what I was thinking.

The bodice of this dress is fully lined, and this was the first time I’ve done that. It took me a few hours of puzzling over the pattern instructions and flipping my bodice pieces back and forth and inside out to figure it out. Then, the front has that lovely embroidered panel sewn in, and the pockets are stitched into the skirt and the skirt is stitched to the bodice, all before sewing in the side zipper. I finished my waist seams with bias tape, and had the whole thing constructed before I realized how big it was.

Annnnd the idea of taking the whole thing apart to take the extra inches out of the back seam or both side seams just seemed exhausting. So I did something kinda dumb. I took all the extra inch and a half out of the right side seam, where the zipper is. Little did I know, oh newbie that I am, that this would NOT WORK, and would result in the dress pulling very weirdly to the right. You can kind of see that here:

Asymmetrical neckline

I had to do some weird finagling to make this even slightly manageable. The zipper was way too high up into my armpit after those extra inches where removed, so I cut off the top of the zipper about an inch and sewed in some makeshift bars to act as zipper stops at the top. The right side pocket is pretty much sewn closed because I didn’t want to take the pocket out and move it further into the skirt (again, LAZY). The neckline is still shifted a little bit over to the right, but not as badly as it was at first.

Despite these…deficiencies, this dress is super comfortable. And I almost always wear cardigans with anything sleeveless, so the asymmetry is really hardly noticeable. Durh. I am thinking of this as a major learning experience.

Up next? Several months ago I bought a few yards of a very loosely knit sweater knit fabric, with the hope of re-creating a sweater that I wore in my twenties and LOVED to pieces, literally. I found this knit pullover pattern at Burda and am in the midst of cutting and prepping the fabric for sewing. This feels like a crazy project. The fabric is tricky to work with, and Burda patterns are notoriously lacking in instructions. For example, the pattern instructions quite simply say “set in sleeve” to, you know, add the sleeves. I have never done this before, so I’ll be scouring the internet for tutorials. But if all goes well…

It’s Me Made May, by the way. I didn’t officially sign up because, well, we’ve talked about my trouble with challenges and resolutions before. I don’t even know if I have enough me-made garments to make it through a whole month. I’m wearing this dress today, so I’m off to a good start. We shall see.

I’m hoping to update more often. There’s been a lot going on lately, and a lot of my mental space has been taken up with library-related work, so some of the crafting and cooking and homemaking has been on the back burner. But wedding crafting will be starting up in earnest soon, so expect to see more of those projects!

What summery garments are you making? Is it summery yet where you live? Yay for May!

New Patterns!

New patterns

Whenever the McCalls/Vogue/Butterick site has a sale for club members, I get a little giddy. Getting a $30 pattern for $3 feels like quite a deal (although I don’t imagine people often pay the $30 list price). So this week I splurged a little on a few things I’ve had my eye on.

I love the Vintage Vogue patterns. The packaging with the old school illustrations makes my heart swoop a little bit. Of course, looking at the required yardage for those beautiful full skirts makes my heart swoop in a different way. But that gorgeous silhouette is worth it. In the pattern above, I think I’m going to make the B version first. I haven’t yet reached a sewist’s mind frame where I can already picture it in a particular fabric or color. But I’ll keep my eyes out for something that seems right for a lovely summery dress. Perhaps something in the type of floral print I usually shy away from.

New patterns

Then there’s this beauty. The pin tucks on the bodice are swoon-worthy. I might even have to get myself (make myself?) at big ol’ Sunday hat to go with it.

New patterns

I also bought my first of Gertie’s Butterick patterns. I couldn’t resist. It might, just might, end up being the dress I make to wear for our rehearsal dinner (although I already have something in mind for that particular event, fabric purchased and everything). I don’t have much occasion to wear fancy dresses like this, but I can’t seem to resist them.

I also picked up a pattern for a little girl’s dress that might end up being my niece’s flower girl dress, if I can find the right fabric.

Despite having all these shiny new babies in my possession, I believe my next project will be from a pattern I’ve had sitting around for awhile:

New patterns

In LA’s fashion district two weekends ago, I bought a navy blue cotton with an embroidered border. I think version A of this dress will make a great summer dress. I don’t have a plan for the little bolero jacket yet. I may or may not make one to match the blue dress. I actually bought this pattern FOR the little bolero jacket, but I have another fabric in mind for it, and not one that will match a blue dress. I’m all over the place in my plans for this pattern.

I did just finish another pencil skirt last night, and I’ll share it as soon as I can get some pictures. I think it’s the best thing I’ve made so far. The fabric is to-die-for, a super soft Italian wool I bought in Seattle, and I hemmed the thing by hand, and put in a lining (first time ever!), and I guess I’ll save all the details for later.

Any new patterns in your collection lately? What sewing projects are you dreaming about now?

The “Kiss Me Deadly” Skirt

20130114_0011

I have always wanted a perfect black pencil skirt. These are so hard to find if you’re shaped like me, with a small(ish) waist and a, ahem, rounder backend. So I knew making a pencil skirt would be near the top of my sewing list this year. I tried one last year, but the pattern wasn’t quite right, and I didn’t finish my seams, so it it eventually started falling apart. Wah wah.

Anyway, when I got Gertie’s awesome book, I was pleased to see a pencil skirt that looked like just what I wanted: a nice high waist, and a great taper down to the knees. It had to happen, and I had a few yards of a nice black ponte knit that would be just right.

Continue reading The “Kiss Me Deadly” Skirt

My Polka Dot Sorbetto

Black and white polka dotted tank to on a blue dress form

 

A few months ago I was wandering through Britex. Frankly, their remnants are about the only things I can afford in that place, and I ended up coming across two beautiful pieces of silky rayon polyester, one a rich blue floral, and the other the black and white polka dotted print you see above. I knew sewing with silky rayons would probably make me want to tear out my hair, but I couldn’t resist them.

I decided to use Colette Pattern’s free Sorbetto pattern for the black and white. It seemed like a simple pattern that wouldn’t cause me too much grief, and it is totally my style: not too fitted, drapey, with a single interesting detail that makes it not just an ordinary top.

This was my first time putting together a garment pattern that I downloaded from the internet, and it wasn’t as daunting as I expected. After taping all the pieces together, I traced it off onto pattern paper, which was much easier to work with than printer paper.

The slippery rayon did prove crazy challenging in the cutting arena, and also when I first started sewing it. But I learned a few tricks that eventually made it easier, and finally accepted the fact that yes, I did need to buy a new needle and some special thread for sewing something so delicate and thin. Using a size 70 needle and some softer rayon thread made a huge difference. In the future, I’d also like to find some spray-on stabilizer, but I couldn’t find any this go around that wasn’t also adhesive. I’m not sure if spray starch would do the same thing.

I attempted to make bias tape out of the polka dotted fabric, because I really wanted the bias finish around the neckline and armholes to match the blouse. But with the slippery fabric, and it being my first attempt at making bias tape, that didn’t happen. I don’t LOVE the grey bias finish, but I don’t hate it, either, so I think it’s fine. The next time I make this top, though, I want matching bias tape.

Finally, I did have to make a minor pattern alteration: I graded the pattern out at the hem a bit to better fit my hips. I knew that if I left it as is, it would be constricted at my hips and wouldn’t hang as nicely. I’m really glad I did that, because the shirt fits very comfortably.

All in all, I ended up really liking this top. I have to wear a camisole under it, because the fabric is fairly sheer. But I wore it to work yesterday and received several compliments. I’m a little afraid of washing it, because I’m still not that great at finishing seams. But we shall see.

The Facts (I’m stealing this idea from The Sew Weekly for my sewing posts)

Fabric: Polka dotted rayon polyester from Britex ($15)
Pattern: Colette Pattern’s Sorbetto Top (free!)
Notions: Bias tape ($3), size 70 sewing machine needles ($5), rayon thread ($5)
Year: contemporary
Time to complete: Including a terrible errand running trip in the rain to buy bias tape, about 5 hours
First worn: Jan 9
Wear again: Definitely.
Total cost: $28, including notions that I will use again