Cavallo Point

As a birthday gift, Sean reserved a room at Cavallo Point for a night. Cavallo Point is a lodge and spa inside Golden Gate National Park, built on the former grounds of the Fort Baker army post. It’s located right at the Marin Headlands, ideally situated for Bay Area vacationing, and also for a quick overnight getaway for us.

Cavallo Point is a super luxury resort that looks like grown-up summer camp. The buildings are all arrayed in a semi-circle around the old Parade Grounds, tucked up into the foot hills, and facing out into the bay. Most of the buildings are historic, with that classic white and red turn-of-the-century look of resorts like the Hotel del Coronado. There are a few new buildings, all designed with sustainability in mind, and seamlessly blended in with the hills and trees around them. Eucalyptus and coastal pines shade the walk ways and fill the air with quiet rustling. This is the most peaceful place I have ever been.

We arrived early Sunday afternoon, and were lucky enough to be able to check in early. Our suite was amazing. It was full of light, with perfect views of the Golden Gate Bridge.

There were lovely little complimentary snacks, including some really good sea salt chocolates and rosemary almonds, and we all know I am a total pushover for snacks.

The bathroom was enormous, with a deep soaking tub, separate shower, and two sinks.

The room had a little balcony with Adirondack chairs, and those excellent views I mentioned.

We immediately set off on a waterfront walk, out along the Bay and up to the Marin side of the Golden Gate Bridge.

I think Sean would have loved a longer hike, but I was ready to get over to the spa. Our stay included access to the spa facilities, featuring a 100 degree meditation pool, steam rooms, and jacuzzis. We spent a good chunk of time soaking in that meditation pool. It might be my favorite place on earth. The water is the absolute perfect temperature, and it’s so quiet and still out there, I almost fell asleep right in the pool. I’m not sure I’ve ever felt so relaxed in my life. We both enjoyed a steam and some whirlpool time before we headed back to our room to get ready for the evening.

First stop, the reception building, for a complimentary glass of wine and some porch sitting.

We had some snacks at the bar, including a delicious version of onion dip and some charred, citrusy olives. Then, we headed off to dinner at Murray Circle, the lodge’s restaurant.

I didn’t get terrific pictures of our meal, because it’s dark in there, but I had some of the best food I’ve ever eaten. First, bone marrow.

I had no idea how delicious bone marrow is. It’s like meaty butter, so creamy and silky. We also ordered a charcuterie and cheese plate. And we both loved the warm pistachios that were placed on the table with the bread.

I ordered a lamb plate with a rich cassoulet. Sean had a pork chop. And we shared the most amazing, creamy polenta I’ve ever had, topped with lamb meatballs. I was still thinking about that polenta the next day. It was like each individual grain of corn meal had burst with the overload of stock and butter and cream and cheese. I probably don’t even want to know how much butter is in it, except I do, because my polenta has never been that good.

We woke up in the morning to the sound of low fog horns in the Bay. We went back to the spa for another soak before packing up and checking out. It was so hard to leave! This place made me feel like there was nothing in the world to worry about or think about. I’ve never been so content to simply sit, gazing out at the hills and the Bay, without even a hint of that restless feeling that I should be doing something.

We cannot wait to come back.

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